Cabled Comfort Throw

The following is my commentary on the "Cabled Comfort Throw" knitting pattern. by Red Heart.

If you're looking for a timeless, classic cable afghan pattern, this is it! I have made this pattern several times for gifts and it has always been loved. This afghan is stunningly elegant yet remarkably simple to make. For those familiar with Cable stitches the pattern is a cinch to follow and the afghan is quick to make-up. Thanks to the Blizzard of 2016, I was able to whip up my most recent version of this pattern in 4 days!

Materials:
Caron Simply Soft Yarn (4 skeins for a lap-sized afghan, 5 for an afghan large enough to cover a bed or couch)
Size 8 circular knitting needles (per yarn brand recommendation)
Stitch markers optional.

Unfortunately, I find a lot of the Red Heart brand yarn (especially their "Super Saver") to be a lot more rough to the touch than some other yarns in its price range. I have made this blanket three times and each time I have used Caron Simply Soft. The color yarn used in the primary photo is Autumn Red. In the video, I am using Harvest Red. I have also made this blanket in Kelly Green which, from what I understand, is no longer available. All have turned out lovely. Red Heart recently came out with a less abrasive yarn called "Red Heart With Love" which I have used to make hats,scarves, and gloves.

Original Pattern can be downloaded Here.

One precautionary piece of advice: The border pattern does not follow the same repetition as the 20 row cable stitch repeat. I made this mistake the first time I made this blanket. The twists are achieved in multiples of 4 rows, the Cables made in multiples of 20 rows (so on the 5th row of the twist columns), and the border is made over a repetition of 6 rows. After I got the hang of the different repetitions, I stopped relying on the pattern and just looked at the blanket to figure out which stage of the border/cable pattern I was at.



CO 195 Stitches



Bottom Border (16 rows)
Rows 1-4: Knit
Row 5: Knit 4, Purl 187, Knit 4
Rows 6-10: Knit
Row 11: Knit 4 Purl 187, Knit 4
Row 12-16: Knit

Begin Cable Pattern

Row 17 (Wrong Side): Knit 4, Purl 6 (border),  Knit 2, [Purl 3, Knit 3, Purl 3, Knit 4, Purl 10, Knit 4] 6 times, Purl 3, Knit 3, Purl 3, Knit 2, Purl 6, Knit 4 (border)
Row 18: Knit 10 (border), Purl 2, [Knit 3, cross 1st of these over next 2 and off Right Needle, Purl 3, Knit 3, cross 1st of these over next 2 and off Right Needle, Purl 4, Knit 10, Purl 4] Repeat until 12 stitches remain, Purl 2, Knit 10 (border)
Row 19: Knit 12, [Purl, YO, Purl, Knit 3, Purl, YO, Purl, Knit 4, Purl 10, Knit 4] Repeat  until 12 stitches remain, Knit 12
Row 20: Knit 10, Purl 2, [Knit 3, Purl 3, Knit 3, Purl 4, Knit 10, Purl 4] Repeat until 12 stitches remain, Purl 2, Knit 10.
Row 21: Knit 12, [Purl 2, Knit 3, Purl 3, Knit 4, Purl 10, Knit 4] Repeat until 12 stitches remain, Knit 12
Row 22: Knit 10, Purl 2 [Knit 3, cross 1st of these over next 2 and off Right Needle, Purl 3, Knit 3, cross 1st of these over next 2 and off Right Needle, Purl 4, Slip 5 stitches onto Cable needle and hold in back, Knit 5, return Cable needle stitches, Knit 5, Purl 4] Repeat until 12 stitches remain, Purl 2, Knit 10
Row 23:Knit 4, Purl 6, Knit 2, [Purl, YO, Purl, Knit 3, Purl, YO, Purl, Knit 4, Purl 10, Knit 4] Repeat  until 12 stitches remain, Knit 2, Purl 6, Knit 4
Row 24: Knit 10, Purl 2, [Knit 3, Purl 3, Knit 3, Purl 4, Knit 10, Purl 4] Repeat until 12 stitches remain, Purl 2, Knit 10
Row 25: Knit 12, [Purl 2, Knit 3, Purl 3, Knit 4, Purl 10, Knit 4] Repeat until 12 stitches remain, Knit 12
Row 26: Knit 10, Purl 2, [Knit 3, cross 1st of these over next 2 and off Right Needle, Purl 3, Knit 3, cross 1st of these over next 2 and off Right Needle, Purl 4, Knit 10, Purl 4] Repeat until 12 stitches remain, Purl 2, Knit 10 (border)
Row 27: Knit 12, [Purl, YO, Purl, Knit 3, Purl, YO, Purl, Knit 4, Purl 10, Knit 4] Repeat  until 12 stitches remain, Knit 12

For Rows 28-45: repeat Rows 24-27 4 more times DISREGARDING INSTRUCTIONS FOR BORDER

For Rows 46-49: Repeat Rows 22-25 DISREGARDING INSTRUCTIONS FOR BORDER

For Border: 5 Rows Garder Stitch,
                   1 Row Knit 4, Purl 6 (on wrong side)

Repeat Pattern until desired length, ending before a twist row, but not on a cabled row (to avoid bunching by the border)

Top Border (15 rows)
Rows 1-4: Knit
Row 5: Knit 4, Purl 187, Knit 4
Rows 6-10: Knit
Row 11: Knit 4 Purl 187, Knit 4
Row 12-15: Knit
Cast Off Loosely in Knit

Do you have any beloved afghan patterns that look more difficult than they are? 

Sunny Baby Blanket

This is another bably blanket pattern that I knit frequently. Baby Afghans are quick, especially if it just uses knits and purls!

Like my other favorite baby blanket patterns, this has no holes for tiny fingers to get caught in! I have only ever made this blanket in pink (due to too many of my friends and family having girls!)

And again, my yarn of choice? Bernat Softee Baby yarn

My best photo example of this blanket (sorry there's a baby in the way ;) )

Pattern:

Cast On 132 stitches

Rows 1-16: knit

Row 17: Knit 8, [Purl 8, Knit 4]x9, Purl 8, Knit 8

Row 18: Knit

Rows 19-27: Alternate between rows 17 & 18

Rows 28-33: Knit

Repeat Rows 17-33 11 times more (so you end up with 12 rows of blocks)

Knit 16 rows for border.

Bind off and weave in loose ends. 

Picture of both the Double diamond baby blanket and this Sunny pattern.

Coming up next, one more frequent baby blanket pattern ;-)

Heart Baby Blanket Pattern

The following is my commentary and adaptations from the Heart Baby Blanket Knitting Pattern by Ann Saglimbene.

I recently finished two of these blankets. One for my niece and one for my friends who were expecting their first child.

I like that this blanket has a very charming pattern, but also that the pattern does not have any holes. Although some of the knitting and crocheting patterns  for baby blankets have adorable lace or flowery embellishments, I get concerned that the little one the blanket is intended for will get his or her finger caught in one of the tiny holes. Although that may or may not lead to a traumatic episode of sorts, I feel it is better to be safe than sorry so I pick patterns that have texture without holes.

For the first blanket I knitted, I used Bernat Softee Baby and needed 3 balls. For the second blanket I used Caron Simply Soft and only needed 2. The Caron turned out a blanket that was equally soft and only slightly stiffer than the one made from the Bernat brand. I try and use the Caron when I can because it does not have a dye lot, meaning that when I have extra yarn left over, I can add it on to another project without worrying about whether or not it will blend with the new skein.

The original pattern left out a minor set of instructions about completing the rows of hearts. The following is my reorganized version of the same pattern, plus the missing set of instructions.

Materials:
Size 6 US circular needles, 29" or longer
ca. 700 yards of baby weight yarn

[BORDER] ( {HEART BLOCK} [BOR] )x4 {HEART BLOCK} [BORDER]

CO 135 sts.
K 8 rows.
Rows 1, 3 and 5 (RS): K
Rows 2, 4 and 6: [K8] {p19} [ k6] {p19} [ k6] {p19} [ k6] {p19} [ k6] {p19}  [k8]
Row 7: [K8] {k9, p1, k9} [K6] {k9, p1, k9} [K6] {k9, p1, k9} [K6] {k9, p1, k9} [K6] {k9, p1, k9} [K8]
Row 8: [K8] {p8, k3, p8} [k6] {p8, k3, p8} [k6] {p8, k3, p8} [k6] {p8, k3, p8} [k6] {p8, k3, p8} [k8] Row 9: [K8] {k7, p5, k7} [k6] {k7, p5, k7} [k6] {k7, p5, k7} [k6] {k7, p5, k7} [k6] {k7, p5, k7} [k8]
Row 10: [K8] {p6, k7, p6} [k6] {p6, k7, p6} [k6] {p6, k7, p6} [k6] {p6, k7, p6} [k6] {p6, k7, p6} [k8]
Row 11: [K8] {k5, p9, k5} [k6] {k5, p9, k5} [k6] {k5, p9, k5} [k6] {k5, p9, k5} [k6] {k5, p9, k5} [k8]
Row 12: [K8] {p5, k9, p5} [k6] {p5, k9, p5} [k6] {p5, k9, p5} [k6] {p5, k9, p5} [k6] {p5, k9, p5} [k8]
Row 13: [K8] {k4, p11, k4} [k6] {k4, p11, k4} [k6] {k4, p11, k4} [k6] {k4, p11, k4} [k6] {k4, p11, k4} [k8]
Row 14: [K8] {p4, k11, p4} [k6] {p4, k11, p4} [k6] {p4, k11, p4} [k6] {p4, k11, p4} [k6] {p4, k11, p4} [k8]
Row 15: [K8] {k3, p13, k3} [k6] {k3, p13, k3} [k6] {k3, p13, k3} [k6] {k3, p13, k3} [k6] {k3, p13, k3} [k8]
Row 16: [K8] {p3, k13, p3} [k6] {p3, k13, p3} [k6] {p3, k13, p3} [k6] {p3, k13, p3} [k6] {p3, k13, p3} [k8]
Rows 17 and 19: Rep Row 15
Row 18: Rep Row 16
Row 20: [K8] {p3, k6, p1, k6, p3} [k6] {p3, k6, p1, k6, p3} [k6] {p3, k6, p1, k6, p3} [k6] {p3, k6, p1, k6, p3} [k6] {p3, k6, p1, k6, p3} [k8]
Row 21: [K8] {k3, p6, k1, p6, k3} [k6] {k3, p6, k1, p6, k3} [k6] {k3, p6, k1, p6, k3} [k6] {k3, p6, k1, p6, k3} [k6] {k3, p6, k1, p6, k3} [k6]
Row 22: [K8] {p4, k4, p3, k4, p4} [k6] {p4, k4, p3, k4, p4} [k6] {p4, k4, p3, k4, p4} [k6] {p4, k4, p3, k4, p4} [k6] {p4, k4, p3, k4, p4} [k8]
Row 23: [K8] {k5, p2, k5, p2, k5} [k6] {k5, p2, k5, p2, k5} [k6] {k5, p2, k5, p2, k5} [k6] {k5, p2, k5, p2, k5} [k6] {k5, p2, k5, p2, k5} [k8]
Row 24, 26, 28: [K8] {p19} [ k6] {p19} [ k6] {p19} [ k6] {p19} [ k6] {p19}  [k8]
Row 25, 27, 29: Knit
Row 30-37: Knit
Rep Rows 1-37 until desired length.
BO.

For the first blanket I knitted, I followed this pattern. I thought that having a garter stitch border (one that alternated between knit/purl/knit/purl) made for an awkward stretch between the border and the block. To fix that, I substituted a moss stitch for the garter stitch and was much happier with the results for my second blanket. I also thought that it created a better texture that suited the blanket.

The following is my adapted pattern:

MOSS= knit the purl stitches and purl the knit stitches.

CO 135 sts.
MOSS (M) 8 rows.
Rows 1, 3 and 5 (RS): [M8] {k19} [M6] {K19} [M6] {K19} [M6] {K19} [M6] {K19} [M8]
Rows 2, 4 and 6: [M8] {p19} [ M6] {p19} [ M6] {p19} [ M6] {p19} [ M6] {p19}  [M8]
Row 7: [M8] {k9, p1, k9} [M6] {k9, p1, k9} [M6] {k9, p1, k9} [M6] {k9, p1, k9} [M6] {k9, p1, k9} [M8]
Row 8: [M8] {p8, k3, p8} [M6] {p8, k3, p8} [M6] {p8, k3, p8} [M6] {p8, k3, p8} [M6] {p8, k3, p8} [M8]
Row 9: [M8] {k7, p5, k7} [M6] {k7, p5, k7} [M6] {k7, p5, k7} [M6] {k7, p5, k7} [M6] {k7, p5, k7} [M8]
Row 10: [M8] {p6, k7, p6} [M6] {p6, k7, p6} [M6] {p6, k7, p6} [M6] {p6, k7, p6} [M6] {p6, k7, p6} [M8]
Row 11: [M8] {k5, p9, k5} [M6] {k5, p9, k5} [M6] {k5, p9, k5} [M6] {k5, p9, k5} [M6] {k5, p9, k5} [M8]
Row 12: [M8] {p5, k9, p5} [M6] {p5, k9, p5} [M6] {p5, k9, p5} [M6] {p5, k9, p5} [M6] {p5, k9, p5} [M8]
Row 13: [M8] {k4, p11, k4} [M6] {k4, p11, k4} [M6] {k4, p11, k4} [M6] {k4, p11, k4} [M6] {k4, p11, k4} [M8]
Row 14: [M8] {p4, k11, p4} [M6] {p4, k11, p4} [M6] {p4, k11, p4} [M6] {p4, k11, p4} Mk6] {p4, k11, p4} [M8]
Row 15: [M8] {k3, p13, k3} [M6] {k3, p13, k3} [M6] {k3, p13, k3} [M6] {k3, p13, k3} [M6] {k3, p13, k3} [M8]
Row 16: [M8] {p3, k13, p3} [M6] {p3, k13, p3} [M6] {p3, k13, p3} [M6] {p3, k13, p3} [M6] {p3, k13, p3} [M8]
Rows 17 and 19: Rep Row 15
Row 18: Rep Row 16
Row 20: [M8] {p3, k6, p1, k6, p3} [M6] {p3, k6, p1, k6, p3} [M6] {p3, k6, p1, k6, p3} [M6] {p3, k6, p1, k6, p3} [M6] {p3, k6, p1, k6, p3} [M8]
Row 21: [M8] {k3, p6, k1, p6, k3} [M6] {k3, p6, k1, p6, k3} [M6] {k3, p6, k1, p6, k3} [M6] {k3, p6, k1, p6, k3} [M6] {k3, p6, k1, p6, k3} [M6]
Row 22: [M8] {p4, k4, p3, k4, p4} [M6] {p4, k4, p3, k4, p4} [M6] {p4, k4, p3, k4, p4} [M6] {p4, k4, p3, k4, p4} [M6] {p4, k4, p3, k4, p4} [M8]
Row 23: [M8] {k5, p2, k5, p2, k5} [M6] {k5, p2, k5, p2, k5} [M6] {k5, p2, k5, p2, k5} [M6] {k5, p2, k5, p2, k5} [M6] {k5, p2, k5, p2, k5} [M8]
Row 24, 26, 28: [M8] {p19} [ M6] {p19} [ M6] {p19} [ M6] {p19} [ M6] {p19}  [M8]
Row 25, 27, 29: [M8] {k19} [M6] {K19} [M6] {K19} [M6] {K19} [M6] {K19} [M8]
Row 30-37: MOSS
Rep Rows 1-37 until desired length.
BO.

Zigzag Afghan

When I was younger, I loved snuggling up with blankets that my grandmother and great aunt crocheted when they were younger. I always admired the colors and the patterns that they used, most from memory when their mother had taught them. I used to study my grandmother's handiwork and as I tried to mimic her, I told myself that I could not call myself a true crocheter until I created my own Zigzag afghan as it was such a staple for all any experienced crocheter.

My first crocheted afghan was made for my friend as a house warming present. I followed a pattern in a pamphlet I picked up at a craft store (used different colors though), but it was far from perfect! (The stitches were fine, but I didn't keep track of rows and I didn't watch the gauge so it ended up being smaller than most of the knit blankets I had made before) I gave it to her anyway and it still serves her good use :)

 I feel bad sharing the pattern for this one because, like I said, it was from a pamphlet, so I don't own the rights or anything to do so.

My next one I made for me for my house warming present. (By this time I had made 4 large afghans as well as 5 baby afghans and decided it was time for me to make one that I could hold onto!)

I did not use a pattern, but instead used stitches that I had discovered as I was learning to crochet, so in a way this is my first original pattern!  This time I chained more stitches so that the blanket would be large enough for the futon I wanted to keep it on.


I used Loops and Threads (tm) Impeccable yarn. It is a nice afghan weight, and very warm (keeping me warm as I worked on it!) for the winter time. I probably wouldn't keep this out to use year round as it was a little warm to wear even for the fall temperatures, but I do keep it out just because I like the pattern :) The three colors are Amethyst, Lavender, and White. The basic pattern I used (more thorough one to follow) was 6 rows of Amethyst, 9 rows of Lavender, and 12 rows of white. Using so much white made me nervous because I thought that it would look dirtier as it aged, but I definitely like the cascading effect achieved by the different number of rows and that the white makes the whole blanket look cleaner (for now!) If I make another one, I might choose colors that complement another neutral color such as beige or the taupe color. Everyone's tension is different, but with mine, 1 skein of yarn earned me about 16 rows of work. Because my work is so big one skein didn't get me very far, but you can monitor your own work and decide what your tension yields and can use this information in any later project you work on. I'll certainly keep it in mind for the next project I start!

Since this is my first time writing a pattern I wanted to go ahead and explain myself. I GREATLY dislike the way that most crochet and knit patterns are published. I'm a smart person, but most times I mess up a pattern because I decipher the pattern wrong and I have to start over. Now, once I have been using a pattern for a while, I reorganize it in my brain a different way and then eventually memorize it so I didn't have to look at the pattern anymore. I know it a.) saves space, and b.) experienced crafters probably decipher the code without an issues, but I decided here I have space, and it's my blog :) I decided to post my patterns in my patterns in a step by step process I'm very methodical and  lay out EVERYTHING that I do in steps. I also want to post a step by step pattern with pictures (which for right now is underneath the pattern without pictures) Eventually I hope to post YouTube videos and link them from my posts, but since this is my first one, I'll rough it just to get something out there. You're welcome to leave me comments if you disprove of my method, or if you want the pattern in the more standard way. I don't mind!

Pattern:

Size: 50"x72" (big enough for two :) )

Materials:
3 balls Color A (mine: Amethyst)
5 balls Color B (mine: Lavender)
6 balls Color C (mine: White)

Crochet Hook size I-9/5.5mm
Scissors

Chain 308 stitches (or any even multiple of 11) of color a. (using an odd multiple of 11 will mean one side of your pattern ends up and the other side ends down and also messes up the counts when doing the skip 2 and chain 2. With an even multiple of 11, both sides should end down)
Start in 2nd chain from hook and Single Crochet (SC) 10 stitches.

Chain 2.
SC 10 stitches.
Skip 2 stitches.
SC 10 stitches.

REPEAT these 4 steps until you reach the end of the chain. This counts as your first row.

[That is your hardest row, it is the only row of its kind in this whole work and because it's your first you have to pay extra special attention to your counting and keeping track of when you chain 2 and when you skip 2. This is the row that might get ripped out many a time over :) ]

Turn work.
Start in 2nd chain from hook.

SC 9 stitches IN BACK of stitches from from the 1st row.
SC in center of hole created by the chains from previous row.
Chain 2.
SC in center of hole created by the chains from previous row (will share with SC made before the chains).
SC 9 stitches IN BACK of stitches from 1st row.
Skip 2.

 REPEAT these 6 steps until you reach the end of the chain, leaving one stitch unworked.

REPEAT the last 8 steps until you have completed 6 rows of color a.

To change colors, cut color a with a safe amount of tail (enough that you won't lose, but not so much that you're wasting or having to worry about getting tangled) pull end of color b into the "turn stitch" of color a and pull tail of a. This creates a light knot and you can now begin working with color b without having another stitch to keep track of.

REPEAT previous 8 steps until you have completed 9 rows of color b.

Change to color c.

REPEAT previous 8 steps until you have completed 12 rows of color c.

Continue working back and forth until you have either used all of your yarn, or have reached a desired length.

To personalize this blanket, you can create a swatch (a trial) of the pattern to test your gauge and decide how wide you want your blanket to be before you start. The swatch I used for the pictures that followed is only 44 stitches wide. Using Red Heart yarn and a H-8/5.00mm hook my swatch ended up being 10", so I know that if I started with 440 stitches, my blanket would end up being 100". (Basic math!)

Pattern (with pictures):

Size: 50"x72" (big enough for two :) )

Materials:
3 balls Color A (mine: Amethyst)
5 balls Color B (mine: Lavender)
6 balls Color C (mine: White)

Crochet Hook size I-9/5.5mm
Scissors

Chain 308 stitches (or any even multiple of 11) of color a. (using an odd multiple of 11 will mean one side of your pattern ends up and the other side ends down, with an even multiple of 11, both sides should end in the same direction)

Start in 2nd chain from hook and Single Crochet (SC) 10 stitches.

Chain 2.

SC 10 stitches.
Skip 2 stitches.

SC 10 stitches.

REPEAT these 4 steps until you reach the end of the chain. This counts as your first row.

[That is your hardest row, it is the only row of its kind in this whole work and because it's your first you have to pay extra special attention to your counting and keeping track of when you chain 2 and when you skip 2. This is the row that might get ripped out many a time over :) ]

Turn work.
Start in 2nd chain from hook.

SC 9 stitches IN BACK of stitches from from the 1st row.

SC in center of hole created by the chains from previous row.

Chain 2.

SC in center of hole created by the chains from previous row (will share with SC made before the chains).
SC 9 stitches IN BACK of stitches from 1st row.
Skip 2.

 REPEAT these 6 steps until you reach the end of the chain, leaving one stitch unworked.

REPEAT the last 8 steps until you have completed 6 rows of color a.

To change colors, cut color a with a safe amount of tail (enough that you won't lose, but not so much that you're wasting or having to worry about getting tangled) pull end of color b into the "turn stitch" of color a and pull tail of a. This creates a light knot and you can now begin working with color b without having another stitch to keep track of.

REPEAT previous 8 steps until you have completed 9 rows of color b.

Change to color c.

REPEAT previous 8 steps until you have completed 12 rows of color c.

Continue working back and forth until you have either used all of your yarn, or have reached a desired length.